stuck at same Layer thickness #218
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Hello, I just updated my Firmware from stock to MRiscoCProUI on my Voxelab Aquila S3 and I'm also using octopi. Tried to do a test print that came with my printer however it seems the layer thickness is only at 0.2 mm for the bottom layer instead of 0.4 mm. I also tried to use the SD card instead and resliced it however it did the same thing. Anything I possibly did wrong in calibration? |
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Replies: 5 comments 19 replies
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what slicer are you using? I would think it has to do with the sliced file, or the model. try a different slicer and or test model to print. check those the slicer parameters. if you want, upload the .gcode file you use and i can take a quick look |
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I'm using the slicer that came with my printer (VoxelMaker 1.2.8) however I'm migrating over to Cura to automatically print with simplyprint (octopi plugin), I'll try a print with it and the SD card later today but here is the Gcode for the stock slicer at the bottom layer. ;generated by ffslicer 1.30.3 06/13/25 11:09:59 |
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Its a bit um.... thinner than it was before now? |
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Well you won't get 0.4 anyway - you have absolute positioning and maximum Z=0.3, so yes - it's just an incorrect z-offset. |
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There is also no Gcode to activate the ABL. |
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Weird because I have it on the S3 profile. Moving on to cura isn't M420 S1 in the start Gcode section of the getting started page, should I use G29 P1 instead since I use the UBL version? |
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I did not see any Gcode for the ABL so maybe the stock FW does this itself. I don't have an ABL so not entirely sure. You can use either.
You set this in the Start Gcode section in the machine settings. It needs to be after |
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so just use only |
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you're using a raft, are there settings that use different layer heights? it goes from 0.2 to 0.3 |
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I believe so, made a typo on the post but it should go to 0.3 for the bottom layer height. some things I've noticed are that cura agrees with the printer and shows that voxemakers layer didn't connect to the perimeter, meaning that stock firmware probably had something special that could read voxelmakers gcode. Curas bottom layer connects to its perimeter however prints it like its confetti. tried without a raft but it makes the bottom layer see-through and the second layer prints little dots. When trying another print I think I also had this issue #197 when it was making an inside perimeter where the motor stopped but it kept trying to print. |
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The perimeter is a partial skirt in voxelmaker, I have not used this so don't know the setting that does this. If the first layer is see-though it means the nozzle is too close to the bed so you need to raise your Z-offset. You usually don't need a raft if you have the z-offset dialled in. This is my standard levelling advice I post on Reddit.
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Hey guys so at this I've tried just about everything however I just cannot get a print to work. I've done all the leveling steps from @Mik-S-UMS I've gone through the calibration guides multiple times, I've tried different slicers, I've tried a cold pull to unclog the printer, and using my printers little unclogging tool. And yet nothing seems to do the trick. is there anything else to do other than switch back to stock FW? |
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what exactly isn't working when it prints? if you install PrusaSlicer there is a Gcode viewer which you can preview the actual print how it looks, compare it to how it sliced. |
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Sorry for the little crash out yesterday, had been working on this for a while and was getting a bit tired. As it would turn out its a mix of two things I did wrong. First, I didn't unclog the printer very well. decided to replace the nozzle and it helped but It was still printing very thin layers. Next I went to both slicers and learned... I am completely blind. Forgot that Cura had hidden settings and turns out layerhight and or layer thickness is not layer width. upped it from 0.8 to 2mm for raft and bottom layer to 150% and finally got something to print. |
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Is the S3 is the one with direct drive? That would make sense if there is not bowden tube. There is probably still a bit of PTFE tube lining the heatsink to guide the filament you should check. This is often overlooked when trying to solve under extrusion as molten plastic can get sucked up into it. Also with it being al all-metal hotend you need very little retraction distance as that can cause molten filament to get sucked back up to the cold end. I don't know how similar it is but the S2 has a proprietary hotend as shown in this video short. This is a big problem especially now as Voxelab has shut down and there is nowhere else to get spare parts like nozzles. Another thing I thought of is reset the firmware settings to default and run a PID tune. |
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oh youre right, you have Direct drive, however I misspoke meaning PTFE tube instead of Bowden tube. |
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when you download or copy this file, just rename to let me know how it goes |
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To me, these mesh structures still look like a clogged nozzle. It will be interesting to find out what the problem is, maybe it turns out to be a very bad filament spool, maybe the extruder gears are already worn out, maybe the gear is barely holding on to the motor shaft, but turns, maybe it is such a simple thing as the wrong number of steps for the extruder motor in the Marlin config :) |
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this mans a genius, as it would turns out the Aquila's esteps are 475 way above the default 98 that is set. and I tested the Calibration cube PLA gcode file and finally. |
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despite the pictures quality, ill take your word for it, so prints are coming out normal? So according to Voxelab's S3 repo @LightningAceNA if you can help me out, I can update the firmware selector. the thing is you say it should be and also which firmware file are you using? Aquila_N32_IND_UBL-ProUI-EX? |
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hey, sorry for the quality phone died right after it finished printing. My measurements were off since I didn't have an accurate ruler. after using a steel ruler with metric units i tuned the E-steps down to 408.42 (i cant tell if i have PTFE tubing and didn't have time to take apart the extruder so thats probably why mines a bit higher than the repo.) yes i am using Aquila_N32_IND_UBL-ProUI-EX. (higher quality image of new cube) |
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very nice. if I may recommend improving on XYZ steps. similar to E steps, but for the other axis'. teachingtech has a great calibration for this and other things. what I like to do is tape something like a pen with a pointed tip and mark the positions using a ruler. I suppose you can use painters tape on the printer's bed and mark like where the nozzle is by bringing it down to touch the bed and measure the distance between points in the X/Y direction. then for Z its similar to that. that should give you better precision. so basically when the printers moves x/y/z its exactly that to, to the 1/10th of a mm. also lubricate the Z axis screw rod, i prefer an oil type like Super Lube than grease. and if you could check the POM wheel bearings if it feels like a flat spot. to do this you will need to unhook the belts for X/Y, and the coupler for the Z axis so the printers moves smoothly. you want to feel for any binding or resistance. like if feels like a flat spot and the POM wheel is fine, it is the bearing that is bad. but doesnt appear you have that issue but it is good to check over time. |
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To me, these mesh structures still look like a clogged nozzle. It will be interesting to find out what the problem is, maybe it turns out to be a very bad filament spool, maybe the extruder gears are already worn out, maybe the gear is barely holding on to the motor shaft, but turns, maybe it is such a simple thing as the wrong number of steps for the extruder motor in the Marlin config :)